Quick answer

The short version

A vacant home needs more than a low thermostat setting. Reliable heat, fuel or power monitoring, vulnerable-pipe protection, a known shutoff, an on-site response plan and deliberate winterization work together to reduce freeze damage. Decide first, deliberately, whether the plumbing stays live or gets fully winterized: partial measures, like turning off one fixture while leaving hidden branches full, create false confidence, not real protection. The most vulnerable piping is predictable: exterior walls, crawlspaces and garages run far colder than occupied rooms, and any location that has frozen before deserves specific air-sealing or relocation work instead of another season of hoping.

Decide whether the plumbing stays live

A continuously heated building and a fully winterized building require different plans. Keeping a building heated means someone learns within hours when the heat or power fails, while draining it means every trap, appliance, boiler loop and water heater has been emptied or protected, and a half-done version of either plan is the one that freezes.

Two defensible plans
PlanRequires
Keep it heatedMonitored temperature, an on-site contact, backup power plan
Winterize completelyEvery water-using and hydronic system drained, water heater power off

Keep heat reliable, not merely set

Confirm fuel supply, boiler or furnace condition, heat-pump low-temperature strategy, thermostat batteries, service access and what happens during a power outage. Room temperature does not guarantee that a pipe in an exterior wall remains warm.

  • Set low-temperature alerts
  • Arrange an on-site contact with keys
  • Verify fuel delivery and backup power assumptions
  • Keep mechanical and plumbing areas accessible
  • Document the main and branch shutoffs

Find the pipes most likely to freeze

Exterior walls, crawlspaces, garages, kneewalls, cabinet voids and lines near old foundations can be much colder than occupied rooms. Prior freeze locations deserve specific air-sealing, insulation, heat or pipe-relocation work.

Use monitoring with a response plan

A temperature, power or leak alert is useful only when someone can act. Define who checks the property, how quickly, where the shutoff is and which heating or plumbing service should be contacted.

Professional winterization

Properties that will not remain heated may require water shutoff, draining, compressed-air procedures for suitable lines, fixture protection, appliance-specific steps and clear recommissioning. Boilers, radiant systems, wells and fire-suppression systems need system-specific planning.

After a heat or power loss

Treat restored heat and water cautiously. A split pipe may not leak until ice thaws or supply pressure returns. Inspect accessible areas, monitor the meter where applicable and have the correct shutoff ready.

Frequently asked questions

Common questions

What thermostat setting prevents frozen pipes?

There is no universal safe number because pipe location, insulation, wind and air leakage differ. Monitoring and vulnerable-pipe assessment matter.

Should I leave faucets dripping in a vacant home?

Dripping is not a complete vacancy plan and can create drainage or well-pump issues. Use a deliberate heated-building or winterization strategy.

Can smart thermostats prevent freeze damage?

They can alert you to some conditions, but they do not detect every cold cavity, fuel failure, power loss or split pipe. Pair alerts with an on-site response plan.

When should a home be professionally winterized?

Consider it when heat cannot be reliably maintained, the property will be unoccupied for an extended period or the plumbing has a history of freezing.